Collar This!

Note from Maker of the "What Not to Wear" Sportsbra Collar

2010-02-22T19:11:00.001-08:00

I invited the owners of "Spiritual Apparel", the new company who makes the sportsbra/clerical collar seen on What Not to Wear to tell us a little about them and their product. Here is their reply.

Six Months ago I had the pleasure of meeting Emily, a young Episcopalian Priest who was submitted as a makeover target for the TLC Television Show "What Not to wear." As a stylist on the show, my job was to help her create a balanced wardrobe that would serve her needs as a professional woman of the clergy and as a twenty-something single girl … easy, right?

As we worked on the makeover, our greatest challenge became how to dress over the Clergy Janie or Shirt that Emily wears for work. All I came across were ill-fitting Clerical shirts or dickeys made of scratchy uniform material, and I soon discovered that functional clerical collars of good quality, and that work with contemporary fashion, were not something easily found. I was baffled.

The only solution I saw was to create a custom-tailored collar that would be suitable for a woman of the clergy. Clothing is not only about how you represent yourself to the world, it’s about how you are choosing to feel in your clothes. The role of a woman in the church is very important, and her collar and vestments should represent that. So, I designed a collar with a fit in mind specifically for a woman that would work as an ideal base layer to work with various modern blouses. It also needed to be comfortable, with a quality fabric that feels good against the skin of the neck. And from the stories I heard about the existing Janie’s and Clerical collar dickeys out there, it needed to be easy to wear -- meaning no fuss, no fidgeting, no re-tucking or adjusting.

The Collar turned out beautifully, and the makeover a success. Soon after her friends started contacting me to request their own custom collar, I realized the significant need for female clerical garments that are both functional and able to blend with a stylish wardrobe. So with such positive response, I decided to make the collar available to women everywhere, by creating Spiritualapparel.com.

Who was one of our first customers? Emily. She wanted another collar: "I ordered another one after my WNTW appearance, because they are made of incredibly high-quality fabric (meaning, no fading, very little wear, no itching) and the fit is perfect (meaning, no bunching). You really just need one, and it will last you for a long time! I've had mine for almost 4 months now, and it looks brand new."

Yes, our collars a bit more expensive then what you are used to spending, but consider a few things. First, when you wear a single garment that is the basis of your career wardrobe, shouldn’t it be something of a fine quality, that you feel comfortable in, and looks great? Second, each collar is also tailor-made according to your individual measurements using high quality fabrics that are a blend of suiting weight wool with stretch --to guarantee that you will be able to move and work comfortably. Third, you will know in good conscience that each collar is handmade to order using fair labor practices and free trade. And lastly, it's a good investment: this collar will last you a long, long time.

We are a small but growing company and are learning more everyday from women around the world who write to us through our website about the daily wardrobe challenges of clerical garments. We find it so shocking that it’s been such an overlooked need! There is no reason that women in this day and time should have to struggle to dress to do the same work as a man. Spiritualapparel.com is looking forward to offering you full clerical shirts & other vestments, and continuing to make a difference in how you can pursue your work while looking great.

"What Not to Wear" collar on sale. . .for an arm and a leg.

2010-02-07T16:01:00.000-08:00

Many of you may have joined the What Not to Wear watching frenzy this Friday night when Stacey and Clinton made over a 26 year old priest named Emily. The Facebook buzz after the episode was a collective longing for the sportsbra like collar.

Well, the makers of the collar must have gotten wind of the collective longing of hundreds of women priests, because they are now selling them on their website, here.

They look great, but cost as much as a custom made clergy shirt ($120), so not sure how many they will sell.

Womenspirit sells a similar-but not custom-"janie" here.

Great Summer Shirt from NY & Co

2009-04-29T12:05:00.000-07:00

This is a great summer potential clergy shirt from New York and Company--the buttons are even covered by a placket! Feminine short sleeves and easily convertible collar. Also comes in white.

Black Gap Shirt

2009-01-31T11:30:00.000-08:00

All my black clergy shirts are starting to fall apart. I have been having a hard time finding black button down shirts that button all the way up to the neck, but just noticed that Gap has one right now that comes in regular, petite and small. This would be a great basic black clergy shirt, once the collar has been taken care of.

Right now it is $44, but I can't imagine it will be that long before it goes on sale. . .

You can find it here.

Cross Designs

2008-07-07T18:56:00.001-07:00

One of our lovely readers recommended Cross Designs to us. According to their website, it looks like they make a variety of clergy shirts, including features we've discussed like: T-shirt material, 3/4 sleeves, curved side panels, even cap sleeves. They don't have photographs, but you can see sketches of some pretty cute ladies' shirts (even maternity!) here.

Prices aren't terrible, either. Even with the falling dollar, they seem to be under $100 each. I don't know how much shipping to the U.S. would cost. If anyone has a photograph of one of these shirts, we'd love to post it!

ETA: I looked more deeply on their website and found two photos, attached here:

Another Maria Sjöden Update

2008-04-09T13:33:00.000-07:00

So, Maria was nice enough to send me a sample shirt as a thank you for the publicity. I thought I'd take this chance to review it for you.

I still can't afford one until I pay off my epic Lasik bill, but if I had money to burn, I would buy out her inventory. The shirt is profoundly COMFORTABLE and fits really nicely. She sent a small, and it fits perfectly, even though almost no other clergy shirt company makes an off-the-rack size that fits me. (I haven't tried the WomenSpirit small yet.) The fabric on Maria's shirt is really soft and stretchy without feeling artificial. It's a really nice knit. It feels like wearing a mock turtleneck.

I don't even mind walking around looking like a Lutheran wearing this shirt. :) I wish she made some styles compatible with the Episcopal collar, but maybe we'll create such a market for her shirts here, she'll be interested!

Where, oh, where are black sleeveless shirts?

2008-04-08T13:01:00.000-07:00

After returning the pillowcase that Almy sent me as a sleeveless shirt, I went on a hunt for an extremely short sleeved or sleeveless black shirt that I could convert to a clergy shirt.

There are none to be found. I've checked Gap, Old Navy, Target, the mall, Bluefly, Overstock.com, LandsEnd, Eddie Bauer, all the usual suspects. Sleeveless button ups are soooo not in this season. Curses. I tried to ignore all the gorgeous feminine blouses that ARE in and would be SO FUN to wear to work. (I love the swingy jacket with a long camisole underneath. Sigh.)

The closest I found was at Target, but beware: Their Merona white and black shirts do not button all the way up, which you cannot tell on the webpage. The Mizrahi white shirt does button all the way up, but is VERY shiny and a bit off white, which always looks weird with a collar, I think.

I did find this shirt at Target. Not black, but still cute and easily adaptable:

I then went into NY and Company, which I never do. I associate NY and Company with clothes my more fashionable friends wore in college, so never really considered them for "grown up" clothes, but now that I can no longer afford Banana Republic and Ann Taylor consistently, I was really, really impressed at the offerings of NY and Company. (And they have a AAA discount! AND their shirts were buy one get one 50% off!)

These shirts won't work with the jackets I bought, but they will look great on their own this summer. They had four different options in black, alone, though only one in my size. Anyway, I bought these:

If you can wear yellow, they also had the most beautiful yellow shirt with subtle white stripes that was really lovely. The website also has white, lavender and rose colored shirts.

If you find sleeveless black button up shirts, let me know! I'm still eager to wear the cute short sleeve jacket I found at Target this spring!

The Bite of the Benefit of the Doubt

2008-04-01T13:02:00.000-07:00

Summer is coming and most of my three-year-old clergy shirts are starting to show their wear and tear, particularly in the. . .ahem. . .underarm area. They've worked fine all winter, layered under sweaters and jackets, but I can't bear to expose them to summer's light.

So, I went on a mission. I bought two, very inexpensive, short sleeve jackets at Target and Kohls. I thought I could pair them with an Almy sleeveless shell.

Why do I keep going to the same well over and over again, even though there is clearly no water there?

The shell came today and this is how it fits:

The shoulders fit great, but the rest of it is literally two rectangles sewn together--completely shapeless. When I put the jackets on, there is eight inches of material beneath them. Keep in mind, this is the smallest shell they sell, and I am 5"4' and 120 lbs. I'm on the small side, but not extremely so.

I thought briefly about having it altered, but then decided for the $36 I spent on it, and the minimum of $20 it would cost to get it altered, I could buy nearly four short sleeve shirts at Target and just adapt them, so the shell is going back in the mail tomorrow.

Maria Sjöden Update

2008-01-29T05:33:00.000-08:00

Okay, I've emailed with her and this is the shirt that is available now:

This shirt will be available in about two months:

She has adapted the priesty part of her webpage to be in English, which is helpful. The contact page is here.

Maria Sjöden

2008-01-22T18:52:00.000-08:00

I got an email from Maria Sjöden today announcing that one of her shirts is available to be shipped to the United States! It's still pricey, and I'm not entirely clear to which shirt she is referring, but Yay! Her email follows:

Thanks for all your e-mails and great interest in the Casual Priest line!

Here is some information about the "Casual Priest".

To start with I can offer black "EVA" tops in sizes S*M*L*XL.
(Picture nr 3, the light grey on the site).
The fabric is 95% Viscose 5% Elastan.
You can wash it in 85 F (cold water).

Attached you will find a measure list so you can choose size.

The price for "EVA" is USD 140
freight is USD 30
All customs tariffs, vat or other taxes that may arise, is to be paid by the customer.

If you like to order you can send me an e-mail with information about yor size, how many garments, your complete address and telephone number.
I will then confirm your order and send you an invoice by e-mail.

Payment is to be made in advance through a banking transaction / internet bank.

The package will be sent, recommended to you, as soon as the payment,(which will be confirmd by e-mail) is done.

Other styles of jersey tops will be available in a near future, during this spring.
Check my website.

I wish you all the best for 2008!

Kind Regards
Maria Sjödin

"Civilian" shirt hack #2

2007-12-11T10:44:00.000-08:00

Inspired by Susan's recent post, last week I bought two J. Crew shirts (Katheryn, slim fit) at a recent sale for 19.99 each. I was all set to follow Susan's advice and rip out the collars, but then my neighbor suggested I attach the extra buttons, per Susan's instructions, and simply tuck the collar in when I want the shirt to function as a clergy shirt. That way I get two shirts for the price of one.

I didn't think this scheme would work, but sure enough, it does! I need to buy a bigger collar. (I usually wear size 14 collar, but the shirt bunches up in the back because the collars I have are not accustomed to fitting on a standard sized shirt. I'll buy some 14.5 collars and hope they work better.) The collar fits a little more snugly with the regular collar tucked in, but for me it is worth it.

So, to recap, I bought a regular button down shirt. I switched out the topmost button with a smaller one, (I did not switch positions of the buttons, as Susan did) and added an identical button to the back of the collar, where a buttonhole would be on a clerical collar. When I want to wear the shirt as a clerical shirt, I simply tuck the collar in, and attach a clerical collar. Voila! Two shirts for the price of one! (And less than half the price of the cheapest clerical shirt.)

oh happy day! cheap shirts at target. AND, detailed instructions on converting shirts.

2007-10-08T20:14:00.000-07:00

Would you like an inexpensive, easily converted, cotton/stretch, machine-washable, short-sleeve shirt? That looks like a normal shirt when you take the collar off, no less?
Like, say, this?

Ok, it does have poofiness at the shoulders. Get over it. This is a great investment!

Here's how to do it.

Go get this shirt at Target: The Mossimo Pintuck Henley. It was $12.99 last week, but this week I can't find it on the website, so you better hustle. Buy several. It's got a nice band/mandarin collar style. Hurry.

Bring it home. Sew a button on the outside back of the neck, just where there's a buttonhole on your 'official' clergy shirts. See this photo below. This is a good way to use up small buttons. No one's going to notice it, so use colors or whatever you've got on hand.

Got that? Good. Now sew a button on the INSIDE of the FRONT of the collar, as high up as you can get it, just above where the outside-facing top button is (see photo below). I'd recommend using very small BLACK buttons. That way, when you wear the shirt as a normal shirt (sans white plastic collar), the button is less noticeable. Capiche?

In this shirt, a size SMALL takes a 14.5" collar.

Those are the best instructions I can give about converting shirts in general. You can use these same instructions to convert a basic button-up shirt, as long as you rip out the fold-down part of the collar and sew the seam back up.

The real trick is to put that front button as high up on the neck as you can get it; normal (non-clergy) shirts just aren't built to ride that high around one's neck, and for it to look presentable (and to avoid making the plastic collar into weird shapes) it's best to accommodate it with higher button placement.

Very important technical details.

I need your stories!

2007-09-27T09:42:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

I am working on an article about clergy shirts for the November edition of Fidelia's Sisters. (The online magazine from The Young Clergy Women Project. The magazine launches here on Monday!)

I would like to know:

a) What your clergy shirt shopping experience has been like. Anything really frustrating? Uplifting?

b) If you've communicated to manufacturers, have you felt heard?

c) What is your favorite solution for feeling fabulous while wearing a clergy shirt?

d) Anything else you feel is relevant. You can post it here or email me at moms(dot)ycw(at)gmail.com.

Thanks!

Sarah

whoa whoa whoa!

2007-09-26T18:26:00.001-07:00

found via comment from a CollarThis friend on the website of a swedish designer. thank you, nice person!

hope this designer speaks english, because her stuff is Very Nice.

Holy Threads

2007-09-24T10:34:00.000-07:00

Peacebang lets us know about a woman named Frances who is beginning a business of making women's clergy shirts. I'll see if Frances can send us some photos. . .

You can read the post here.

another potential convert

2007-09-19T18:11:00.000-07:00

I bought a shirt today. This is how it looks if you mock up a collar.

(Store wrinkles intact).

Far more casual than your classic black, and the buttons show, and it's got those weird sleeve holder-upper tabs.

Thoughts?

potential converts?

2007-09-18T13:20:00.000-07:00

Not the heathen! (Heavens, no.)

But maybe these shirts.

Gap has this one in brown and white, which looks like it might be easy to convert. But can you wear a BROWN clergy shirt? I'm not sure that's a good idea.

If you're looking for a grey shirt to convert, this one at Ann Taylor Loft might do you just right.

However, you can get a decent grey clergy shirt that is fitted and has all the holes punched for you at Womenspirit. I'm a big fan of mine.

To paint or not to paint?

2007-09-10T12:19:00.000-07:00

Ok, so I've had at least 4 conversations in the last month about female clergy (specifically me) painting my toes and wearing sandals to church on Sunday. The bigger issue is certainly the shoe choice and not the shades of hot pink and red I like in the summer-- I think. I also think someone is paying way too much attention to their clergy and not enough to Jesus, but I am trying to be open.

SO, what do you think? Are open-toed shoes taboo on Sunday morning?

Lydia, Oh Lydia!

2007-09-06T08:29:00.000-07:00

Jessica brings to our attention that Augsburg Fortress has a new line of women's clergy shirts out that are (gasp!) cute and (wowzers!) cotton yet wrinkle free! Mercy me.

They don't have sizes for small, flat chested women like me, but I have called and made my desires known and they will call me if they decide to begin producing smaller sizes. In the meantime, they have a generous range of sizes for everyone size 6 and beyond.

Check them out here.

called out.

2007-08-27T07:24:00.000-07:00

Helen at Episcopal Cafe has recently called us out. And reasonably so; it has been several months since our last post.

Forgive us for being somewhat overworked, on vacation, or generally out to lunch!
And do check out her article, which centers around the issue of what that nice little plastic collar might represent to one's significant other:

"When I was toying with formal discernment, he got very excited that I might become a priest for reasons that weren't exactly the sort of thing I should be sharing with you, gentle readers, but imagine my horror when I found that he had posted exactly that to HIS blog. In the vernacular of the netspeak generation, Oh noes! zomg! Do. Not. Want!"

Here at CollarThis! we have tended to focus on the awkward intersections of clergy fashion and young women's lives. Kudos to Helen for coming up with another (and slightly more daring) spin on that issue.

yes. shoulders in church.

2007-06-14T13:04:00.000-07:00

Some rather conspicuous silence in this space lately: mostly due, I suspect, to the fact that we all found things to wear and then went back to actually doing our jobs.
However, now that summer has arrived in full force, and the air conditioning in our narthex is so broken that I had to get the bishop a DISH TOWEL with which to mop his brow the other day, I find myself again with few suitable options.

Target to the rescue. This sleeveless shirt converted easily.* It's fairly well cut. It's $18. What more could you ask for in a sleeveless black clergy shirt?

All of which raises yet another one of those implied questions: do you feel funny wearing a sleeveless shirt to church on Sunday mornings?

*To convert: use seam ripper to rip out foldy-down part of the collar. Re-sew the seam. Sew small button on the back of the neck (outside) and right in the front of the collar (on the inside, a little high). Done.

UPDATE: 'might this actually work?'

2007-02-19T17:46:00.000-08:00

Remember this old post? Well, I got my Womenspirit fitted blouse today, and it fits like a charm.
Except for two things:
1. by the sizes on their website, I should have ordered a full size larger (but the size smaller fits perfectly); AND,
2. the neck is just about choking me. This must be a result of them thinking that the person who can fit into a real size 2 will be wearing a size four (see advice about size chart below), because I don't think I have a wrestler neck. So, may have to do some creative working on that one.

But overall it looks great in the grey fabric, falls nicely, looks nice with jeans, and is a MAJOR step in the right direction. Hooray!

So, if you're going to order, look at their size chart and choose a full size smaller, at least, than what the chart says.

stand up for your rights

2007-02-14T10:15:00.000-08:00

Lovely ladies, I had a nice chat today with Jackie at Womenspirit. She encourages you all to call and pour out your hearts about what you desire for the future of women's clericals, and all the details of how you like (or don't) your Womenspirit products. You can find her most afternoons at this toll-free number: 888-515-5775.

hidden placket shirt! (but slightly frooffy sleeves)

2007-02-14T08:07:00.000-08:00

Dahlings, if you're into converting shirts, this one has a hidden placket (the buttons are all covered up). It does, however, have some 'ruching' at the sleeves, which, while it does not achieve the glorious poofiness of some of the more grievous clerical shirts, may be just cutesy enough to make you run away. My feelings will not be hurt.

The shirt comes in white, light blue, and black, and is a cotton/nylon/spandex blend, and is machine washable.

Will update you on conversion results after it arrives.

2007-02-12T11:59:00.000-08:00

Collars and Jeans-- A Glamour Do!
Tell me why one would say this is a "don't"? I love jeans and can remember my favorite pair I bought as a teenager at Goodwill in my hometown. They literally fell apart and I had to throw them out. Now that I am employed and making a stellar priest's salary (sigh) I am allowed jeans with a slightly scarier price tag. My new fav's are Lucky Brand Jeans. They make any backside look amazing and while we don't want to draw undo attention to backsides, that little white band around my neck seems to draw more. Lucky jeans actually say "Lucky You" in a sweetly surprising spot and why not wear them to work on occasion? I have had older priests say it's not appropriate, but...well...I don't listen to them. Thoughts on collars with jeans?

too slinky for clergywear?

2007-02-09T13:53:00.000-08:00

Ann Taylor Loft has a couple of new dresses out in black (here and here)--they're wrap-style, which means that your Janie won't be totally obvious underneath.

What do we think?
Too slinky to wear to church (with a collar)?
Let the rumpus begin!

J. R. Evans update?

2007-02-09T11:25:00.000-08:00

Has anyone purchased a custom shirt from J. R. Evans of late? They showed such promised when I was in seminary--lots of fabrics, seemed open to creative ideas, but at that time they were switching factories, so actually ordering from them was a disaster.

It went something like this:

Me: Get measured, choose fabric, wait with great anticipation for a tan shirt.

J.R. Evans: Send a tan shirt that literally goes to my knees.

Me: Puzzled. Send the shirt back with an explanation.

J. R. Evans: Months later, sends a pink shirt that fits great.

Me: Puzzled, thanks them for the pink shirt, but explains she ordered a tan shirt.

J.R. Evans: Offers to replace it.

Me: Suggests I just keep the pink shirt and they cut me a deal.

J.R. Evans: They do.

I have been hesitant to order from them since this, but I know many, many women love their shirts. I'd love to hear from those who have had good experiences, particularly if you are small chested. For some reason all the women I know who like them have ample bosoms.

does my bum look big in this?

2007-02-05T15:29:00.000-08:00

Click here for a great discussion on Maggi Dawn's blog of the ups and downs of putting on the collar.

Dansko alternative?

2007-01-24T19:54:00.000-08:00

Like most clergy chicks, I love me some Danskos. They keep me aligned so I can walk around all day without my back or hips hurting. I've got crazy flat feet, so I enjoy their arch support, too.

However, the Dankso is not an elegant shoe. When I heard about Earth shoes, I was pretty excited. Good arch support, "negative heel technology" (read: Your heels sits lower than the ball of your foot which is supposed to enhance posture and burn calories. Woohoo!) Even better, they are slightly less clunky than Danskos. They are no Jimmy Choos, but I think this style (Pirouette 2) is pretty cute. You can also by many of their shoes in leather-alternative. (Though I sacrificed part of a cow for mine.)

I've only had mine about a day, but they felt great. They run a little big, so shop accordingly. You can buy them at Zappos and hippie-type stores.

They've got buckets of styles, some in super cute red patent leather.

Another J. Crew find

2007-01-24T19:42:00.000-08:00

At the heavenly Lynchburg J. Crew outlet today, (I know it is heavenly because it is so difficult to find--it's almost mythical. Golden lights and harmonic sounds should emanate from it as you draw near.) I found this shirt on sale for $20. (It currently retails for $75.

I haven't decided whether to modify it for clerical wear, but it certainly could be done. I'd button up first if I were you, but who am I to judge?

Might this actually work?

2007-01-17T19:58:00.000-08:00

Jessica alerted us to this one: Here's a shot of WomenSpirit's new "fitted" blouse. The manufacturer says,

This is the clergy shirt you've been wanting! A stylish blouse with feminine shaped fit and 3/4 length sleeve. Darts in the front and back. Designed with a curving hem to be worn out. High hip length. We have two fabrics, a beautiful 100% Cotton End on End weave comes in French Blue or Charcoal Grey. Or, choose 65% Polyester/35% Cotton broadcloth in Black. Made in USA of imported fabric. New size range includes size 4.

Does anyone have a review? A consumer report, if you will?

Tailor girl

2007-01-17T06:24:00.000-08:00

Thus far I have remained in the getting-shirts-made camp, mostly because the non placket covered buttons paired with a collar drive me crazy visually. Unfortunately, our tailor is not a young man (Who knows how long he'll remain with us??? Panic!) and the shirts run about $120-$130.

MFD introduced us to the world of tailoring and it worked something like this:

Find a tailor or shirtmaker in your area (MFD already had a connection, fortunately.)
Convince said tailor there is a market for making women's clergy shirts that look like a woman's shirt.
Bring in your favorite non-clergy shirt. (In this case it was a Banana Republic blouse, I think.)
The tailor will make a pattern based on this shirt. After you work out the kinks (My first was a bit short. . .no need for the parish to see my belly every time I raise my hands), you can call the tailor and have him make a particular color from afar. (Important in our case, since our fabulous tailor is the chattiest man alive.)
After you receive your fabulous shirts, show them to all your clergy girlfriends so they can storm down the tailor's door.

Old Navy band-collar shirts?

2007-01-16T15:12:00.000-08:00

Just saw these online here... Obviously, a little casual, and not the classy black...would need a button or two sewn on...Will let you know if they work.

Convert this.

2007-01-15T17:56:00.000-08:00

If Almy is going to charge $54for a shirt that doesn't fit, we've got the option of paying just as much (albeit overpriced) for a shirt that does, and then changing the collar (very simple surgery).

Kudos to Lauren for finding this one--and it's on sale!

You can take any collared shirt to a tailor to have it converted--I'd recommend taking a bonafide clergy shirt and collar and studs with you to demonstrate. But it's easy to do at home if you're not scared of a needle and thread:

Acquire a seam ripper, a needle, black thread, and a thimble.
With a seam ripper, detach the collar (the part that folds down on a normal shirt).
Sew up the seam that's left; it now looks like a band/mandarin collar.
Sew a small button onto the outside of the very back of the neck.
Sew a small button onto the inside of the front of the neck, right behind where the top button already is.
Voila. No studs, buttonholes, ironing, or sewing machine needed.

PS: You will have to adjust the size of the collars you wear; nobody that sells clothes at the mall intends for anything to be as tight as the clergywear people do. So, on a typical 'small' size shirt, try a size 15.5 collar. It takes some experimentation.